Healthista spoke to skincare scientist and founder of Vive Skincare Marina Trani who reveals the 4 things you need to do to help menopausal skin
Dry skin, redness, sensitivity – if you thought skin troubles were reserved only for your teenage years, think again.
Throughout life, our skin is constantly exposed to challenges, such as UV light, changes in weather, oxidative stress, and air pollution – all of which causes a low level of inflammation.
Another challenge our skin faces is fluctuating hormones, which can play havoc with the overall look and appearance of our skin. Especially when it comes to pregnancy and menopause, where we see significant hormonal changes and fluctuations.
This reduction of oestrogen drives many significant changes such as a considerable drop in collagen
In fact, during the perimenopause (lead up to menopause) and menopause, many women experience a range of skin challenges, such as dryness, dark spots, a loss of elasticity, wrinkles, and sensitive skin.
‘The main reason for these skin changes during perimenopause and menopause is that our oestrogen (female sex hormone) production reduces dramatically,’ says Italian skincare scientist Marina Trani, who has over 30 years of experience researching the science behind skincare.
‘This reduction of oestrogen drives many significant changes such as a considerable drop in collagen and other key skin structurants.’
Indeed, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, women’s skin loses about 30 per cent of its collagen during the first five years of menopause. After that, the decline is more gradual, with women losing around 2 per cent of their collagen ever year for the next 20 years.
What are the first signs of skincare changes during menopause?
‘The first sign of a weaker skin structure is the perception of dryness,’ explains Trani.
‘Suddenly the skin feels very dry, and the effect of moisturisers becomes short lived. This is because, with weaker skin barriers, skin moisture is lost rapidly.
‘Also, skin often becomes more sensitive with the occurrence of redness, itchiness, and blemishes.
‘Lastly, the texture and feel of the skin will begin to feel less smooth and plump, and wrinkles and discoloration will become obvious.
it becomes essential to support the skin in any way that you can
‘Referred to recently as ‘Menoface,’ this term is used to describe the hyperpigmentation and dark patches that start to appear around the neck, hairline, eyebrows, or mouth which is perceived as appearing less youthful.’
As the skin barrier becomes weaker, lacking the ability to defend itself, and the skin changes mentioned above become prevalent, it becomes essential to support the skin in any way that you can.
Marina Trani gives us the lowdown on what we need to do for our skin during menopause, plus which key ingredients can help deal with the inevitable hormonal changes.
#1 Find a hydrating moisturiser that works!
‘Our skin is perhaps one of the most important organs in our body and a number of critical physiological processes occur within its layers’, says Trani.
‘For these processes to happen in the most optimal way, the skin needs to be well hydrated.’
The first plan of action Trani suggests is to invest in a good everyday moisturiser – regardless of age – as soon as the skin starts to feel dry and tight when using normal products.
‘This becomes very important, as a good level of moisture in the skin is essential to activate the skin’s own physiological processes.’
#2 Opt for gentle ingredients over retinols
Retinol is a popular ingredient derived from vitamin A that is added to many anti-aging products, however, Trani suggests that the use of this may be too aggressive on the skin for some women.
Instead, opting for Niacinamide, may increase the skins’ ability to lock in moisture and is proven to strength skin barriers.
Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, is known to promote elasticity, reduce the appearance of blotchiness and pigmentation, and strengthen skin barriers.
‘The strengthening of the skin barriers allows higher protection from environmental stress such as pollution and UV radiation, and locks in moisture, providing intense hydration which in turn plumps up the skin for a more youthful appearance,’ explains Trani.
‘Additionally, using skincare products that include CBD ingredients have shown to bring inflamed and stressed skin back into balance.’
CBD, or Cannabidiol, is a non-psychoactive constituent of the Cannabis plant. The human body has an endocannabinoid system that receives and translates signals from cannabinoids.
Vive is a clinically tested skincare range that contains a 3-in-1 Tri-active formula
‘When we apply CBD to our skin, it is thought to influence our skin’s own ability to respond to challenges resulting in a reduction of the appearance of redness and blemishes,’ says Trani.
‘Zinc Oxide is also a great ingredient to look out for in skincare. Often used in nappy rash creams to soothe a baby’s bottom, Zinc Oxide helps manage the appearance of redness and protects from further irritation.
‘It also forms a protective layer on the skin that helps retain moisture and guards against environmental damage.
‘In general, my preference is for products that have a concise list of ingredients, as I am sceptical of an extended ingredients list. Less is most definitely more in skin care.’
Created by Marina Trani herself, Vive is a clinically tested skincare range that contains a 3-in-1 Tri-active formula of the ingredients mentioned above – CBD, Zinc Oxide and Niacinamide – to protect and preserve against hormone related skin changes.
Indeed, clinical studies show that with 28 days of consecutive use of Vive’s award-winning Day Defence Cream, 91 per cent of participants reported a reduction in overall redness and an overall improvement in skin quality.
Plus, 86 per cent reported intense moisturisation and 77 per cent saw a reduction in the visibility of fine lines.
Shop the full 5-product range at vivemybeauty.com
#3 Avoid harsh cleansers and scrubs
Trani suggests that it is important to avoid harsh cleansers and scrubs on your face.
Also avoid using soap on the face, as this can be especially drying for the skin.
‘The effect of harsh ingredients has the potential to increase our rate of skin aging, due to the way these products can break down an already weak skin barrier,’ explains Trani.
avoid using soap on the face, as this can be especially drying for the skin
‘Another tip includes avoiding any products that may contain a strong fragrance, as sensitive skin can have a negative reaction causing inflammation or breakouts.
‘I suggest avoiding heavily fragranced products because of the risk of encountering ingredients that the skin cannot tolerate. I also suggest avoiding parabens and short chain surfactants.’
#4 Protect your skin from sun damage
Trani emphasises that ‘some level of sun protection is even more important during menopause.’
In other words, the most important skincare product you should use on your face every day is the holy grail of all products – SPF (Sun Protection Factor).
As mentioned, the declining hormone levels, particularly oestrogen, can result in skin becoming drier and more sensitive during the perimenopause and menopause. This can mean an increased risk of sun damage, including age spots and the appearance of wrinkles.
‘Bringing a level of protection such as SPF and antioxidants are pretty much the building blocks behind all effective skincare routines.’
Marina Trani has worked in Research & Development for 34 years. With an entire career spent studying chemistry and biology, she has extensive knowledge of the science behind skin and how to improve its health and appearance.
As Marina noticed changes in how her skin was behaving – increased sensitivity, redness, dryness, and blemishes, she used her scientific knowledge to create a product that would build up the strength of her skin to make it more resilient to stress and deliver vital antioxidants and vitamins.
Follow Vive on Instagram: @vivemybeauty
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